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Przykręcanie listw drewnianych do ściany


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Witam !
Jak przykręcić listwy drewniane 6cmx6cm do ściany z cegły ? Jakie kołki rozporowe ? Jaka średnica wkrętów i kołków ?
Czy najpierw wywiercić otwór pod śrubę w listwie ?



Ja stosuję w takim przypadku kołki szybkiego montażu fi8 x 12cm - one są od razu z dyblami które można po prostu wbić młotkiem. Możesz nawiercić w listwie otwory wiertłem do drewna, a później widiowym przez ten otwór wiercić w ścianie. Przy mniejszych grubościach (do 3-4cm) wiercę od razu widiowym z udarem przez listwę... możesz spróbować - jak pójdzie lekko w 6cm będzie mniej zabawy.
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Witam !
Jak przykręcić listwy drewniane 6cmx6cm do ściany z cegły ? Jakie kołki rozporowe ? Jaka średnica wkrętów i kołków ?
Czy najpierw wywiercić otwór pod śrubę w listwie ?


W jakim stanie jest ta ceglana ściana? Czy równa? Co masz na te listwy montować?
Generalnie można to zrobić tak, jak napisał Irbis Strzecharstwo, ale jeśli trzeba będzie równać w pionie i korygować krzywizny ścian, to może lepiej będzie przykręcać zwykłymi wkrętami z kołkami rozporowymi - można w pewnych przypadkach poluzować wkręt i ewentualnie podłożyć jakieś dystanse w celu odsunięcia listwy w przypadku niechcianych odchyleń listew. Można pomyśleć o nawierceniu otworów o średnicy większej niż średnica łba wkręta na głębokość ok połowy grubości listwy, co ustabilizuje mocowanie listew. Jak ma być mocowana np. boazeria hdf, wystarczą kołki średnicy 6mm o długości 10 - 12 cm (jeśli pozwoli na to grubość ściany), jeśli coś cięższego, to lepiej wybrać kołki grubsze. Musisz pamiętać, że w niektórych zastosowaniach wymagane są mocowania na kołkach stalowych.
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Rozmawialiśmy wcześniej o mocowaniu stelażu dla płyt gipsowych, pod zabudowę rury.
Kołek szybkiego montażu również może posłużyć do mocowania na nierównych ścianach (wkrętarką można nieco poluzować wkręta aby podłożyć dystans). Nie stosuję nawiercania aby wpuścić łeb w listwę, chyba, że drewno jest na tyle twarde, że pomimo wbicia młotkiem łby wystają z drewna przeszkadzając w przyleganiu płyty.

Tak już mam, że wolę dać deko więcej niż deko za mało icon_wink.gif dlatego kołki fi8, a fi6 szybkiego montażu o długości 12cm nie spotkałem - z tego co wiem to maksymalnie produkowane są 6x80mm. Można by się jeszcze rozpisać na temat materiału z jakiego mają być te kołki, ale w tym przypadku uznałem że nie ma to większego znaczenia. Pozdrawiam
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Rozmawialiśmy wcześniej o mocowaniu stelażu dla płyt gipsowych, pod zabudowę rury.
Kołek szybkiego montażu również może posłużyć do mocowania na nierównych ścianach (wkrętarką można nieco poluzować wkręta aby podłożyć dystans). Nie stosuję nawiercania aby wpuścić łeb w listwę, chyba, że drewno jest na tyle twarde, że pomimo wbicia młotkiem łby wystają z drewna przeszkadzając w przyleganiu płyty.

Tak już mam, że wolę dać deko więcej niż deko za mało icon_wink.gif dlatego kołki fi8, a fi6 szybkiego montażu o długości 12cm nie spotkałem - z tego co wiem to maksymalnie produkowane są 6x80mm. Można by się jeszcze rozpisać na temat materiału z jakiego mają być te kołki, ale w tym przypadku uznałem że nie ma to większego znaczenia. Pozdrawiam


Zgodzę się z Tobą gdyż zazwyczaj kołki stalowe są stosowane z uwagi na ognioodporność / podstawowy błąd przy mocowaniu rur gazowych na ścianach / jednak tu pytanie dotyczy listew drewnianych tak że tutaj raczej stosowanie kołków metalowych mija się z celem.
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Dziękuję wszystkim za cenne wskazówki.Ściany mam proste,bez krzywizn.Poza tym będę przykręcał płyty małymi kawałkami , a cała ściana do zabudowy ma 2,10 m x 0,85 m.Listwy będą z drewna suchego i wysezonowanego.Dlatego zdecydowałem się na mocowanie na listwach bo ze stelażem miałbym kłopoty.Nie miałbym jak zamocować dolnego profila UW.A może ktoś mi podpowie jak zamontować stelaż na takiej ścianie bez dolnego profilu UW ? Edytowano przez Nornik (zobacz historię edycji)
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Dziękuję wszystkim za cenne wskazówki.Ściany mam proste,bez krzywizn.Poza tym będę przykręcał płyty małymi kawałkami , a cała ściana do zabudowy ma 2,10 m x 0,85 m.Listwy będą z drewna suchego i wysezonowanego.Dlatego zdecydowałem się na mocowanie na listwach bo ze stelażem miałbym kłopoty.Nie miałbym jak zamocować dolnego profila UW.A może ktoś mi podpowie jak zamontować stelaż na takiej ścianie bez dolnego profilu UW ?


Nie bardzo rozumiem dlaczego masz problem z zamocowaniem dolnego profilu . Chodzi Tobie zapewne o ten dolny profil nad płytkami. jeśli twierdzisz że masz równe ściany to Ja zamontowałbym profil U dwa cm na górną krawędzią płytek a następnie włożyłbym w niego drugi profil U tworząc coś w rodzaju zamkniętego kwadratu oczywiście profile skręciłbym z sobą za pomocą tzw." pchełek " . Rozumiem że jest to dalszy ciąg Twojego problemu z rurą w kuchni dlatego też wykorzystałbym profil U 50 co pozwoliłoby na odsunięcie płyt od ściany o 5 cm.
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Nie bardzo rozumiem dlaczego masz problem z zamocowaniem dolnego profilu . Chodzi Tobie zapewne o ten dolny profil nad płytkami. jeśli twierdzisz że masz równe ściany to Ja zamontowałbym profil U dwa cm na górną krawędzią płytek a następnie włożyłbym w niego drugi profil U tworząc coś w rodzaju zamkniętego kwadratu oczywiście profile skręciłbym z sobą za pomocą tzw." pchełek " . Rozumiem że jest to dalszy ciąg Twojego problemu z rurą w kuchni dlatego też wykorzystałbym profil U 50 co pozwoliłoby na odsunięcie płyt od ściany o 5 cm.


Skoro byłeś tak uprzejmy i odpisałeś na mój post to miałbym wielką,wielką prośbę.
Czy mógłbyś mi podesłać taki prosty schemat jak takie mocowanie profilu wygląda ? Ja mam pamięć wzrokową i dopóki
nie zobaczę na schemacie czy zdjęciu to nie mogę sobie wyobrazić jak to ma wyglądać.
No bo tak - sufit zrobię z płyt gk na stelażu i tu jest wszystko dla mnie jasne - natomiast z tego co wiem to profil UW ma być przykręcony do ściany prostopadle u góry i u dołu no i tu mam problem,bo jak go tak przykręcę to jak włożę w ten profil profile CW ? Nijak bez poglądowego rysunku się nie obejdzie.Dołączam zdjęcie tej mojej ściany.Tą rurę na górze będzie zasłaniał sufit podwieszany , natomiast chodzi mi o te rury na ścianie.

DSC01446.jpg

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Skoro byłeś tak uprzejmy i odpisałeś na mój post to miałbym wielką,wielką prośbę.
Czy mógłbyś mi podesłać taki prosty schemat jak takie mocowanie profilu wygląda ? Ja mam pamięć wzrokową i dopóki
nie zobaczę na schemacie czy zdjęciu to nie mogę sobie wyobrazić jak to ma wyglądać.
No bo tak - sufit zrobię z płyt gk na stelażu i tu jest wszystko dla mnie jasne - natomiast z tego co wiem to profil UW ma być przykręcony do ściany prostopadle u góry i u dołu no i tu mam problem,bo jak go tak przykręcę to jak włożę w ten profil profile CW ? Nijak bez poglądowego rysunku się nie obejdzie.Dołączam zdjęcie tej mojej ściany.Tą rurę na górze będzie zasłaniał sufit podwieszany , natomiast chodzi mi o te rury na ścianie.


Jeśli masz przykręcone profile U to najpierw koniec profili CW wkładasz załóżmy w dolny profil U a następnie odchylasz o taki kąt by zaszedł w drugi profil U następnie energicznym ruchem doprowadzasz go do pozycji pionowej. Oczywiście profile CW muszą być o około 1,5 cm krótsze niż rzeczywista długość.

DSC01446.jpg

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Jeśli masz przykręcone profile U to najpierw koniec profili CW wkładasz załóżmy w dolny profil U a następnie odchylasz o taki kąt by zaszedł w drugi profil U następnie energicznym ruchem doprowadzasz go do pozycji pionowej. Oczywiście profile CW muszą być o około 1,5 cm krótsze niż rzeczywista długość.


Serdeczne dzięki już teraz mniej więcej wiem jak to zrobię.Nie wiem tylko czy zdecyduję się na profil stalowy czy drewniany,po prostu sadzę że z profilem drewniany będę miał mniej roboty.Ale pomyślę i przekalkuluję za i przeciw.


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Serdeczne dzięki już teraz mniej więcej wiem jak to zrobię.Nie wiem tylko czy zdecyduję się na profil stalowy czy drewniany,po prostu sadzę że z profilem drewniany będę miał mniej roboty.Ale pomyślę i przekalkuluję za i przeciw.


Oczywiście że możesz do ściany przykręcić listwę drewnianą a do niej profil U.
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Oczywiście że możesz do ściany przykręcić listwę drewnianą a do niej profil U.


Rozjaśniło mi się w głowie i teraz widzę że ma kilka wariantów rozwiązania tego problemu.
Poza tym znalazłem (całkiem przypadkowo) bardzo ciekawy blog: płyty gipsowe - porady montera i jest tam mnóstwo baaardzo przydatnych informacji.
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Rozjaśniło mi się w głowie i teraz widzę że ma kilka wariantów rozwiązania tego problemu.
Poza tym znalazłem (całkiem przypadkowo) bardzo ciekawy blog: płyty gipsowe - porady montera i jest tam mnóstwo baaardzo przydatnych informacji.


Te systemy są jak klocki Lego trochę pomyśleć a potem to już samo wychodzi.
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